sew over it doris dress
hey sewing friends,
i’ve got a new pattern to show off today! well, i say new, but i’ve had it in my stash since august 2016..!
it’s the sew over it doris dress. i love the 90’s vibes that this dress has got, and i have been waiting for the right fabric to make it with. when i went to doughty’s with elle a couple of weeks ago, this viscose told me to buy it, soooo i did.
i cut a straight size 14. i think it was an inch too big on the bust measurement but i often have issues with grown on sleeves; they bunch up under my arms and always look too tight when i blend between sizes. i think part of why it’s taken me so long to make this is reservations about how it will actually look on me.
i really like it now it’s made, but i had to make a change to the shoulders once it was all made up. the top was absolutely SWAMPING me. like, way more than the inch that the measurements said it was too big. however, the sleeves did fit really nicely so that solved one problem i guess.
i bought the shoulders up & in by 5/8th of an inch, front and back. it was undeniably a bit of a pain, having to unpick the top stitching, unpick the facing, take the shoulders in, take the facing in, then re-sew it all! however i think it was worth the extra time it took to sort it all out.
i did what everyone else that has made this dress has done and just sewed the buttons straight through the placket. i’m not about introducing gaping risk if i don’t have to. also button holes in viscose… no thanks.
i didn’t quite have enough fabric for the full skirt panels which was a bit annoying, and my fault for only buying 2m of fabric. i folded in about an inch or so from the bottom of each panel, so it’s not actually as swishy as it should be – however it is so swishy anyway so i don’t think it’s had any detriment to the dress at all. the only thing i’m disappointed about is the fact i didn’t have enough fabric to make the long back tie. i went with the little back panel thing (who knows what is it really) and matched my buttons to the front.
i wasn’t sure whether to use white buttons to make them stand out, but i think i’ll stick with these for now. they catch the light and shine grey every now and again – obviously impossible to capture on camera.
i used my dressmaker’s dummy again to hem it after letting the skirt drop for a few days. after trying it on, i thought it was way too long. which then made me sad again because i probably could have got the long tie out of my fabric if i’d just cut the skirt pieces the right length anyway. never mind eh! i’ll just have to make it again.
i lobbed about 3 inches off the overall length and then hemmed it, which took forEVER because there was so much of it! i’m kind of glad i had to let it hang for so long, i would have been too bored doing it on the same day as doing the rest of the dress haha.
i don’t think i have time to make a new dress for christmas day, so i’ll probably wear this. i’ve made an astoria jumper to go along with it, so i might put a few embellishments on the jumper to make it a bit christmassy.
so there you go, doris! i’ll be on the look out for some more cute viscose to make another in the new year.